Engaging Lebanese-born chef Alan Geaam opened a third location at the heart of the old market area of Paris and called it by the simple name of AG Les Halles. The rather sleek and modern setting nevertheless retains a few retro touches with a large marble-topped bar at the entrance, while a magnificent Belle Epoque glass ceiling, a listed historic monument, towers over the main dining room. The same modernity tinged with classic touches can be found in the food, with a short menu featuring several bistronomic and generous suggestions like the remarkable foie gras ravioli, butternut squash, manderin orange, peanut and espuma (€14), the delicate filet of meagre and risotto venere topped with razor clams and a sauce vierge with glasswort (€20), or the butcher’s cut served with marrowbone, parsnips and grelot onions (€22). The trolley of Sanders cheeses (€12 per person) accompanied with succulent jams made by Alain Geaam’s mother-in-law is a definite must. For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the incredible tropical fruit savarin. With a evening tasting menu at €55 for two hors d’oeuvres plus six courses, and a lunch special at €18 for two hors d’oeuvres, main dish and coffee, the master of the house has set a very high bar in terms of value for money. Very nice wine list with a dozen or so wines by the glass.
Noon to 2pm and 7pm to 11pm Closed Sunday Average price: €55