Gourmet Delights

Le Printemps : Good taste to suit every taste

21 Feb 2018

All the local gastronomic specialties of France – from the mainland to its overseas territories – are showcased at the Printemps du Goût, where a new concept deli and an array of fresh produce pay tribute to the country’s culinary knowhow. On the 9th floor, a 500 sq.m. restaurant, Perruche, has opened in a secret garden high in the Paris sky. By Florence Halimi

Taking wing to do one’s food shopping; touching the Parisian sky as one discovers the finest produce of France’s lands and seas: that is the alluring foodie offer from the Printemps Haussmann department store. France is a horn of plenty… and its rich variety of flavors now covers an area of 1,700 sq.m. at the Printemps du Goût on the seventh and eighth floors of the Printemps de l’Homme, in the very space occupied by the store’s staff kitchens back at the start of the 20th century. “The configuration means we have to juggle with the store’s logistics to organize the flow of stock. In particular, we’ve renovated the goods elevator, both to handle the supply of fresh produce and, in the other direction, to organize waste sorting and the collection of unsold products for the Tablée des Chefs society,” explains Emmanuelle Touboul. The young woman is familiar with all the work of the hotel industry. She especially managed the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild before she launched this concept, which took three years of planning and preparation to coax from the blank page.

Printemps du Goût. 7 et 8e étages du Printemps de l’Homme

64, boulevard Haussmann, 75009, Paris www.printemps.com

See itinerary

Years spent exploring France’s territories to unearth rare flavors, tasting and tasting again, the ultimate challenge to her own palate and those of the tasting committee members. In all, they blind- tested 18,000 products made by 2,000 artisans, whittling the choice down to the 2,500 – several of them new or produced in very limited quantities – that are displayed today on the shelves of the deli in the heart of the seventh floor. Fourteen categories of specialties are available, from preserves to condiments or confectionery, not forgetting the aperitifs so dear to the French.

All around the area, seven iconic areas dedicated to ‘high-taste’ products have been installed. Each features a great name in a particular field: Dubernet for foie gras, Byzance for smoked fish, Maison Balme for truffles, La Juicerie for a healthy diet, La Maison du Chocolat, Le Palais des Thés for tea and roaster Lomi for coffee. A fresh-produce market… with a view over Paris The cellar with its 1,500 wines is supervised by Le Repaire de Bacchus, which has selected four hundred vintages, including some celebrated grands crus, as well as 150 organic wines, 300 spirits, around 100 champagnes and the same number of beers and ciders. There is also a champagne bar for a brief, intoxicating pause on the way from the specialized bookstore to the Gifts and Boxes section, before heading on up to the ninth floor.

There, looking out at the Eiffel and Montparnasse Towers silhouetted against the Paris sky, customers wander among the fresh-produce stalls of the market, presided over by the Gallic capital’s finest artisans and chefs, including Akrame Benallal, who supervises the areas devoted to fruit and vegetables, meat and fish. In the section run by Laurent Dubois, master cheese monger and holder of the prestigious Meilleur Ouvrier de France award, 80 cheeses patiently matured in his Paris cellars emanate delicious, powerful scents that mingle with the mouthwatering fragrance of Gontran Cherrier’s fresh bread nearby. Then there are the cakes and pastries supplied by the unchallenged master of the genre, Christophe Michalak, at the Printemps du Goût. “He’ll especially be offering desserts co-branded with other artisans, and original creations such as a chocolate-roquefort mousse,” adds Emmanuelle Touboul.

Although each area is perfectly distinguishable, they all reflect the style imposed by the Printemps Architectural Department, a take on the Halles de Baltard market: glazing and wrought iron, and black-and-white mosaic counters decorated with brass. “The teams from Le Printemps and the architect Antonio Virga have made mosaic the leitmotif, a reminder of both the department store and catering trades,” explains Emmanuelle Touboul. Each artisan also presents a distinctive, gourmet menu – a seasonal one, of course. Two hundred and sixty seated places are available indoors or out on the panoramic terraces opened for the occasion.

Perruche takes off !

On the ninth floor, set in an astonishing garden on the roof terrace of the Printemps de l’Homme-Printemps du Goût, a 500 sq.m. bistronomic restaurant named Perruche – parakeet in English – is opening. In its appealing setting all in wood and exotic plants designed by Toro & Liautard and giving onto a terrace with a breathtaking view over Paris, Perruche serves a cuisine prepared with local specialty produce. To lunch, enjoy a drink, dine, admire the sunset or simply celebrate, the rooftop will be open every day from noon until 2 in the morning. 9th floor. Perruche. 2, rue du Havre, 9th.