Tucked away on a tiny street in Les Halles district, this is the next rising star of Paris restaurants, if our meal is anything to judge by. A reference to the Museum Mile (alias MuMi) in New York, this new location near Beaubourg, the Louvre and the future contemporary art center in the Bourse du Commerce has everything it needs to succeed.
Thibault Passinge sets the tone: this is a place that loves art, as evinced by the refined decor by architect Hervé Porte punctuated with murals by Codex Urbanus, not to mention the good food and good wine. The former sommelier of the famous Porte 12 has created a variety of ambiances so that every customer feels perfectly at home to enjoy the beautifully creative and subtle cuisine of Angelo Vagiotis, who has worked his magic at a number of starred restaurants, such as Gordon Ramsay in London and La Torre de Saracino in Naples, and of course Porte 12 in Paris as well. The two beautiful tasting menus in 4 or 6 courses for dinner feature remarkable ingredients sourced directly from small, high-quality producers.
Lovely composition around beetroot, peach and Fourme d’Ambert cheese (a starter!), mackerel given a twist with crunchy cucumber and a smooth buttermilk sauce, succulent pollock escorted by tender eggplant and a verjus sauce, or a surprising and zesty dessert with lemon and verbena. Artful cuisine, perfectly showcased by the boss’s fine wines.
Chardy prix-fixe lunch menu at €35, Linard in 4 courses at €40 and Oudry in 6 courses at €60. Food and wine pairing upon request.