Jouvence

Romain Thibault’s new restaurant, housed in a former apothecary shop in the Aligre district, has no shortage of style with a beautiful dining room that has retained the old woodwork and mirrors, along with the antique faience tile floor… but has also been given a rejuvenating facelift with a gorgeous high curved table extending from the bar, light metal-rimmed tables, globe lights hanging from high ceilings, and comfortable petrol blue bench seating. A young chef from the kitchens of Pintxo and L’Antre Amis, Romain Thibault concocts bistronomic cuisine that makes a welcome addition to the caravansary of great eateries in the area. The menu features, for example, an (excellent) knife-cut sausage served with a Marennes oyster (€14), laid on an unnecessary bed of Bordier seaweed butter (for we felt it brought an overpowering fish flavor to this unexpected yet successful pairing). Then came a faultless and truly delicious dish: roasted langoustines served with citrus-braised endives and shellfish jus (€26), a fine balance between the tangy flavors of the sea, vegetables and citrus. A grand cru chocolate éclair, sprinkled with hazelnut praline and ginger, brought a delightful sweet touch to finish our meal (€8). For once, don’t hesitate to dip into one of the “natural” wines on the menu: they are remarkably well chosen and very pleasant to drink, which is quite rare. Definitely a restaurant to try! Prix-fixe menus at €24 and €32, and lunch special at €19. Five-course tasting menu at €55.

Noon to 2pm and 7pm to 10pm
Closed Sunday and Monday
Average price: €45