World cuisine


The team from the trendy Da Vito-Moonshiner and the Dirty Dick bar have opened a pizzeria in the Charonne district. And if you are a true rock n’ roll fan, you will have already guessed that the restaurant is named after the famous song by Richard Berry. At any rate, this pizza place is a smash hit. Nothing very Italian about its rather sleek decor. Starters range from €5 for Bolognese mortadella to €11 for a copious 250g raw-milk burrata that you can share if you’re feeling generous. Next come the pizzas that monopolize the menu and are available in countless topping combinations. We decided on a classic Neapolitan with San Marzano tomato, mozzarella fior di latte and basil (€11). We thoroughly appreciated the delicateness of the tomato sauce, finer and lighter than the purées generally used. That said, we had asked for our pizza well done, and even though the edges were nicely browned, the crust was quite soggy in the center… a shame for a dough that has been made with select flours and risen for 48 before baking! No panna cotta or tiramisu on the dessert menu, but a 72% dark chocolate mousse (€6) or an Barbancourt 8-year rum baba with whipped cream (€7). Interesting selection of French and Italian wines, with a dozen or so available by the glass (€5 to €6.50 for 12cl). Prix-fixe lunch menu at €14.50.

Noon to 2:30pm and 7pm to 11:30pm Monday to Friday
Noon to 11:30pm non-stop Saturday and Sunday
Average price: €25


78, rue de Charonne, 75011, Paris Phone : 09 73 58 14 36
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By David Richard et Manuel Mariani - Published the

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