Following on from the haute couture burger trend, which is still going strong, Paris is now succumbing to the siren-song of the American-style steakhouse. One of the latest to spring up is run by Noam Rolnik in the former location of the Guy Marin Italia. Newly redecorated by La Bonne Image, the beautifully modern setting is done in tones of charcoal grey and equipped with comfy faux-leather armchairs. Chef Alexandre Sanchez, formerly with the Grill de Paris in Monaco and the Pré Catelan, has taken over the reins of the kitchens, working with a Josper, a revolutionary grill from Spain like a cross between an oven and a barbecue that cooks generous cuts of beef to perfection. To say there is a lot of choice is an understatement: prime pieces of Salers or Aubrac from the House of Rouillon aged at least 30 days, Galician beef, Angus from the USA, Chilean Wagyu from Lesage, most available in cuts of 300g (€24 to €40) or 500g (€30 to €63). We opted for a flawless Galician ribeye served with a lovely homemade Bearnaise sauce and fresh-cut fries, which we would have preferred slightly crispier. A few starters and desserts are on offer for the most ferocious appetites, like the sea bass ceviche with makrut lime and coconut, pomegranate oil and crisp vegetables (€19 for this happy combination that could have been seasoned with a little more punch) or a superb fall fruit crumble (€9). The fine selection of wine by the glass should also be mentioned.
From noon to 2:30pm and from 7pm to 11pm Closed Sunday Average price: €60
