La Marée Jeanne A strong coefficient of pleasure
In Paris (which is not exactly overrun by fish restaurants), La Marée Jeanne is spring 2015’s great catch. In this third opus of his bistronomic trilogy, the owner, Frédéric Hubig, has stuck to the principles applied in his Jeanne A in the 11th arrondissement and Jeanne B in rue Lepic, Montmartre: a restaurant/delicatessen/table d’hôte concept where diners can savor supremely fresh dishes at a reasonable price. To reach La Marée Jeanne, we set a course for the very bourgeois-Bohemian (and unparkable) rue Mandar. In a strange décor combining more or less every kind of style, we watch chef Cyril Boulet going about his business at the large navy-blue counter, while a short way off, Sébastien Maréchal (previously at the Café Moderne) stands at the helm. The highly innovative menu presents excellent seafood of every genre in large and small portions: “consommé”, like the generous lobster, chanterelle and pea; “tartare”, like the bass with seaweed; “la pince”, like the lobster croq’homard (a Jeanne A and B specialty, too), not to mention the salt-encrusted sea bream or bass “prepared to order”. La Marée Jeanne is enough to delight anyone. The experience is delicious from start to finish, with service provided by efficient young cabin hands. The restaurant is packed at both lunch and dinner time, so remember to make a reservation.
From noon to 11pm
Average price: 45 €