Zostera

After a noted tenure at the Saint James, Julien Dumas opens his first restaurant in his own name, grounding his vision in a cuisine deeply connected to the sea. Housed in the former Pergolèse, the restaurant retains a hushed, minimalist elegance designed to let the plate take center stage. At the table, the ocean is the guiding thread, without excluding the land, in compositions that are both precise and poetic. The lunch menu highlights lesser-known fish such as mackerel with sorrel and beetroot, or mullet with quince and bottarga, in a four-course journey (€55). In the evening, tasting menus (€99, €136, or €175 for 6, 8, or 10 courses) unfold like a maritime voyage. Highlights include oyster and sturgeon with beetroot (with optional Sturia caviar), scallops with coral and chili, blue lobster with pomegranate, meagre with sloe, fish of the day with buckwheat and chicory, camaret with spaghetti squash, and a signature dish featuring squid and ink. The finale explores land and shoreline, with poularde and sea lettuce, chestnut and sea urchin, and a delicate honey- and- coastal-herbs dessert. The wine list by Samuel Ingelaere follows a terroir-driven approach, offering both accessible bottles and rare gems,with glasses from €8 to €26.