ISTR

Among the latest arrivals on the Sentier district food scene, Istr (or oyster in Breton) clearly flaunts its focus on seafood, to be sampled at the vast oyster bar or in the lovely dining room beautifully decorated by restaurant’s founders Philippe Morin and Pierre Michaël Smague. The two young restaurant pros have teamed with Pascal Gauthier, a digital media expert who has decided to take his career in a new direction. At any rate, the result is pure perfection, since chef Julien Kerwien, formerly with Guy Martin and the Table de Joël Robuchon, hasn’t forgotten any of his teachers’ lessons as he skillfully concocts bold and inventive cuisine that brings fish and shellfish together in a most successful creative and Breton-themed style. We loved his excellent tempura oysters in tzatziki sauce (€7 the pair), which are also featured in the remarkable assortment of starters to share (€24). Same delight with his Fregola Sarda and shellfish (€18), composed of those delicious little pearls of pasta served in a succulent, tangy sauce with razor clams, cockles and mussels. And last but not least for dessert, a tasty cocoa sablé biscuit with raspberry and buckwheat sauce (€9). Interesting wine list with a nice selection of wines by the glass and even, for once, so-called natural wines that are a real pleasure to drink, like the delicious and surprising Chenin Méchant. A must-try! Prix-fixe menu at €29 and lunch special at €24.

Noon to 2:30pm and 7pm to 11pm • Closed Sunday •
Average price €60