Created on Faubourg Montmartre in 2016 by Keyvan Badri with two-star Breton chef Olivier Bellin as culinary advisor, the first Mersea (sea-sea for English speakers!) was an instant hit. This gave him all the encouragement he needed to open a second location, this time with Olivier Bellin as his associate, in the chic and trendy foodie venue Beaupassage on the Left Bank. You have to head to the upper floor – the ground floor being more devoted to drinks, cocktails and a grocery corner – to discover the big, beautiful dining room with an open kitchen. Nothing particularly exceptional about the decor – it is a pleasant contemporary brasserie setting with sea blue walls, a bright and modern fresco, and picture windows along one wall affording a view over Beaupassage and its fine food shops. The menu features the same specialties as the original restaurant, with a wide choice of quality oysters that you can enjoy “here or to go”. The six lovely Gillardeau N°3 oysters (€24) will delight seafood lovers. They can also be had au gratin at €14 for 3. A nice touch, the oysters are always accompanied by a shot of “Mersea” gin from the Hautefeuille distillery in Picardy, which is also sold by the bottle for connoisseurs (€38). We then tasted the star dish of the house: the “fish and chips dentelle” with pollock (€14.90). Truly worthy of praise, by the nature of the fish itself – pollock as opposed to the traditional pouting – and by its incredibly light, almost airy batter. The lobster roll (€26) revisited by Olivier Bellin also has its following, but we felt it was a little stingy on the lobster meat. A dessert trio like the unique lemon-tomato and basil cream (€6.50) brings the meal to a sweet close. A friendly location that won’t break the bank, with Sunday brunch from 11:30am to 4pm for €25.
11am to 11:30pm Monday to Saturday. 11:30am to 4pm Sunday
Average price: €35