After East Mamma, Ober Mamma, Biglove Caffé, Mamma Primi, Pink Mamma, Popolare, and the gigantic food court La Felicita, the Big Mamma crew has now opened Libertino at the heart of the 10th arrondissement. The decor is overwhelmingly quirky, with an immense kitchen equipped with a pizza oven and a Jasper coal oven, a sprawling dining room filled with a truly zany collection of knickknacks from southern Italy, green plants and flowers climbing the walls or spilling down from the ceiling. The walls of the theatrical Spettacolo room are draped with red-hot fabric, while the incredible basement features a stunning round, revolving bar in the middle of the room where the house mixologists put on their show. As a bonus, the cuisine is much more refined than in the other establishments, exemplified by a delicious and enormous “charred” leek (€9) presented on a wooden board, with a heart of burrata, pickle vinaigrette, whole-grain mustard, tarragon, red onions and capers; succulent tagliolini cacio e pepe pasta (€15) prepared before your eyes in the pecorino romano wheel, and served with fried artichokes, Timut pepper and dill; Roman pizzas with thin, crispy crusts, margherita-style (€13) or truffled (€20); or desserts served by the slice, such as the generous dark and milk chocolate pie with salt-butter caramel (€6.50). Unlike the other Big Mamma locations, Libertino accepts reservations… but only online and for groups of 7 or more for dinner.
Noon to 2:30pm and 6:45pm to 1:45am
Average price: €35