The tongue-in-cheek name of this restaurant is the work of three big kids well-trained in old-school cooking: Alexandre, Margaux and Antoine. So loosen your tie and unbuckle your belt, if you are looking for somewhere stuffy and old-fashioned, you’ve come to the wrong place. With her mad love of cushions, Greek-style bench seats and flea markets from Noirmoutier to Paris, Margaux has created her own unique style that blends Art Deco with salvaged finds.
As for young Marius, barely more than 27, he delivers traditional, authentic and refined cuisine with no fuss and bother (word of warning, however, of some risky presentations!): lovely octopus with citrus zest, julienned vegetables, fried leek (€9), excellent veal confit, polenta with Espelette pepper, green asparagus (€18), a lovely dish, somewhat spoiled by an inelegant presentation of asparagus “jabbed” into the polenta like banderilles.
The faux pas is quickly forgotten, however, with the arrival of a thin-crust apricot tart (€8), with just the right amount of sweetness, a remarkable flaky pastry and a flawless pistachio mascarpone cream. A short but sweet wine list with several references served by the glass, coupled with very friendly service should soon make this restaurant a neighborhood mainstay.
Noon to 2:30pm and 7pm to 10:30pm Closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday for lunch and Sunday for dinner Average price: €35.