Bistros

The lousy bistro kitchen… version 2023

09 May 2023

Just a stone’s throw from Boulevard des Batignolles, in the bustling Rue des Dames, Thibault Sizun, former restaurant director at Ida and Brigade du Tigre, has just opened this new address named after his grandmother. Designed by the name Michele Bulgherini, the setting with a very Parisian charm, with its bar covered with an old-fashioned zinc, its beautiful and large mirrors, its tables and chairs of brown wood and its retro tile, announces the desire of the house to return to the fundamentals of a lousy bistro kitchen. To complete the casting, the kitchens were entrusted to Soda Thiam. Spotted during her training in Italy by chef Simone Tondo, this young chef of Senegalese origin was persuaded to come to France, where she made her weapons as second chef at Gare au Gorille. At Janine, with excellent products, often local and organic, Soda Thiam prepares a subtle and tasty bistro cuisine that you would be happy to share with Audiard or Simenon: Janine style remoulade celery with squid, mussels and grilled leeks (12 €), braised pig’s cheek, iced radishes and creamy polenta with herbs (26 €)… beautiful achievements that are accompanied by the excellent bread of the Bacillus bakery located a few steps, on the same sidewalk. For dessert, the apple pie with smoked pepper ice cream (20 €) offered for two is a no-brainer… A beautiful neighbourhood nugget that brings back the taste of the past.