Restaurants

L’Archestrate, a new discrete adresse on the left bank

29 Aug 2023

Already at the helm of the neighboring restaurant, 122 rue de Grenelle, Agathe Vaissière opens here a new dining spot, more confidential than her first establishment. The name was inspired by the Greek gastronome of the 4th-century BC, Archestratus of Gela, author of one of the oldest cookbooks, and revives the same name as the late Alain Senderens’ highly regarded Michelin three-starred restaurant located just next door on Rue de Varenne. For this new Archestrate, the intimate and luminous decor within a vibrant and cozy frame plays with a palette of blue and yellow hues. The skilled chef Martin Gomès-Léal, born into a family of cooks, is not lacking in talent. He offers a beau- tiful seasonal cuisine in an ethical spirit, favo- ring quality suppliers and short circuits. Thus, even if the menu is quite short with its trio of starters, main courses, and desserts, we thoroughly enjoyed a duo of green and white asparagus (€16) cooked to perfection and well- highlighted with a citrus condiment vinaigrette. The following cod dish (€30) was of rare perfec- tion with a beautiful quality fish, its cooking meticulously controlled, admirably accompanied by fresh peas in grain and puree form. To conclude this beautiful meal, we opted for an original cardamom cake served with roasted pineapple and coconut ice cream. A no-nonsense esta- blishment that will delight all lovers of beautiful and good cuisine.