Cartier’s new journey
Mastery of lines, volume exploration, a palette of colors, inspiration from nature and global cultures – these are the realms we dive into, pushing the boundaries of creativity to discover new horizons. This collection takes us to the inexhaustible wellsprings of inspiration Cartier,» says Jacqueline Karachi, Director of High Jewelry Creation, about Chapter II of “Le Voyage Recommencé”. Much like the pieces from the first installment show- cased last spring in Italy, these fifty new items revisit Cartier’s che- rished themes, eschewing repetition or reinterpretation of archives. Unveiled in Paris this July during Haute Couture Week, the new sets reimagine the brand’s fundamentals, presenting abstract lines, a surprising color palette, and the unexpected presence of fantastical animals – an invitation to a journey through the jeweler’s universe.
Each Cartier piece draws from various inspirations (Islamic art, India, China), exemplified by the Dohara necklace. This piece, with its reversible structure and play on colors, pays tribute to traditional Mughal jewelry. On one side, the glow emanates from diamond fires, white gold, and sculpted rock crystal. On the other, hints of red, green, and blue lacquer. Fordecades,thejewelerhasdrawnfromfloraandfauna.Eschewing a saccharine or romantic portrayal, Cartier opts for an aesthetic that combines hyperrealism, stylization, and abstraction, as seen in the Pineas necklace. Two slightly asymmetrical pendants, adorned with pink gold scales, are elevated by details of coral or emerald. Evoking the structure of pinecones, these overlapping motifs culminate in a cascade of gemstones. In two separate strands, faceted beads are followed by two briolette-cut yellow diamonds and two hexagonal Colombian emeralds totaling 25.84 carats. Further, while the panther’s agility and coat – the house’s cherished feline – feature in some Chapter II pieces, it’s another creature that captivates: a brooch in the form of a dragon. Both protector and predator, it dominates a 30.11-carat octagonal tourmaline, clutching a yellow diamond, its eye sparkling with another pear-cut yellow diamond.
The play on color harmonies is intrinsic to the stylistic lexicon of the Rue de la Paix jeweler. In the Miraggio necklace, sapphire blue pairs with emerald green, echoing the “peacock decor” envisioned by Louis Cartier, who innovatively combined these two cool tones – a pairing once deemed unorthodox by the high society of his time. Here, this classic palette is softened by new combinations, such as sets of eighteen sapphires and thirty-six notable emeralds highlighted by onyx streaks and white diamonds. Even the Tutti Frutti, Cartier’s beloved chromatic trio, is reimagined. Though opulent, necklaces, earrings, and secret watches breathe more freely with the open settings of sapphires, emeralds, and rubies, interspersed with exquisite white diamonds.
If exceptional gems have always steered a Cartier jewelry design, their unique cuts (kite, modified hexagon, half-moon) and their angular nature encapsulate the house’s modernity quest. The Eximis ring is a prime example with its central Fancy brown-yellow 4.15-carat diamond in a diamond cut, flanked by triangular white diamonds. These unique pieces showcase beauty’s diversity, the French house’s excellence in craftsmanship, and its continually rejuvenated creativity.