Dior Joaillerie Paris, precious talismans
Great destinies often have warning signs. For Christian Dior, it was a metal star found on a Parisian sidewalk, a piece that probably fell from a horse-drawn carriage wheel. It was April 18, 1946, and the designer was about to sign a contract with the industrialist Marcel Boussac, who proposed to finance the creation of his own house. The star does
will also leave the stylist’s offices and it will even be reproduced in the size of a gold pendant to thank his collaborators for their 10 years of service.
This lucky charm was also for Victoire de Castellane when she launched in 2015 the Dior jewelry collection Rose des vents, directly inspired by this landmark episode in the history of Christian Dior, but also the designer’s childhood home in Granville, the Rhumbs, a term used to describe a quarter of the 32 winds in a wind rose. I wanted to start with the idea of a small pendant with a motif, says the artistic director of Dior Joaillerie. And what could be more allegorical than a locket? Behind the symbol of the journey we find the story of Christian Dior and the idea of a lucky charm but also the rose, his favorite flower. The whole history of the house is there, watermarked.”
Today the brand’s best-seller, the Rose des vents collection of Dior welcomes new pieces to wear alone or in accumulation as the style of fine and light jewellery. Three Y-necklaces play the onyx medallion, pink opal or white mother-of-pearl at the end of their gold chains while open rushes dress the wrist with a precious rudder on which dialogue a rose of winds and a diamond made of pearly gold, one of the distinctive features of the collection. We find this duo on open rings offered in pink gold and white gold. The round of colors is made brilliant with a new three-row necklace where 16 wind roses juggle, earrings and a soft cuff that combine the blue of the lapis-lazuli, the green of the malachite and the red of the carnelian.
In the cousin line, the Rose Céleste collection, double spiral hoops frame the face with a joyful sun and a protective moon, two motifs also offered in pendant with a diameter pushed to 25 millimeters. Engraved in mother-of-pearl, new figures dear to M. Dior such as the rose, the bee and the lily of the valley, which he had sewn a strand in the hem of the dresses on parade days, The double heart and skull surround the wind rose on a necklace and a talisman bracelet. The bee and lily of the valley are reproduced in playful ear chips proposed to the unit to be combined.
«The rose of the winds immediately imposes a very nice idea of travel, and for me, the creation of a jewel or a work is to go to the end of something, it’s the wind, it’s the elsewhere, the guide that shows the way», explains Victoire de Castellane, whose immobile journey to the land of Christian Dior’s imagination has not finished producing wonders.
The hour of the black horseshoe
Like the small black dress, the small black watch is a must-have for women. Dior now offers it for its Dior D watch.
Designed in 2003 by Victoire de Castellane as «a ribbon that gives the time», the Dior D watch has already known many variations of its fine and elegant silhouette: Satine with its Milanese mesh bracelet that recalls the shine of satin, mini D and its small format, Rose Couture and Rose Céleste inspired by jewellery collections…
Today, this icon of feminine watchmaking is offered in Black Ultramatte, a finish that gives it a new ultra-contemporary look. The secret of this process is a DLC coating, “diamond like carbon”, carbon particles applied chemically to stainless steel. Frequently used in watchmaking, this material is particularly resistant to scratches, sweat and other external factors. Available in a new diameter of 34 mm, the model offers a precious version whose bezel is set with brilliant-cut black diamonds, creating play of shadows and lights between the polished stones and hands, and the matt appearance of the dial background. Written in the history of the designer, the black color recalls in particular the wide skirt and under the knee of the New Look, curved silhouette with the size that revolutionizes women’s fashion after the war. In his 1954 Petit dictionnaire de la mode, Christian Dior wrote, “I could write a whole book on black”, a shade that he felt could be worn at any time, at any age and on any occasion. Three years later, he is buried in the Var, not far from his beloved property: the castle of Colle Noire.
D de Dior Black Ultramatte en acier DLC, à partir de 4 300 €.