Chanel, Tweed Act II

Woven from gold and gemstones, the pieces in the new Chanel high jewelry collection were inspired for a second time by tweed, the favorite material of Coco Chanel.

Chanel’s love affair with tweed goes back more than a century. The founder of the Maison discovered the codes of the British aristocracy as the then-lover of the Duke of Westminster, back in the 1920s. Charmed by the elegance of this rugged and resilient carded-wool material, she adopted it, produced it in France, gave it a modern touch by adding other materials, like cotton and silk, and made it the thread that ran through her collections. Chanel Joaillerie first drew inspiration f rom tweed for its high jewelry collection in 2020. “For that collection, I focused mainly on the materials’ suppleness and texture, in particular by working on the joints,” says Patrice Leguéreau, director of the Chanel Fine Jewelry Creation Studio.

Chanel Joaillerie

18, place Vendôme, 1st
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Chanel Joaillerie

42, avenue Montaigne, 8th
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Now the brand has launched a second, sixty-piece collection. “I decided to go a step further and add poetry, depth and color by featuring five icons dear to Chanel,” adds Leguéreau. “We want women to feel a special connection to each piece, so they need to tell a story.” The first, the ribbon, a tie and adornment in couture, is light and perpetually in motion, bringing out the softness of the precious tweed weave in a monochrome blend of pearls, diamonds, and white gold. The necklace can be transformed into a bracelet by shortening it to complete the set, and the ribbon motif on the brooch can be worn as a choker.

A pink sapphire was selected for the camellia. A symbol of delicacy but also of liberated femininity, the flower has facets of powder pink, fuchsia and other colors. In this design, the tweed plays on the effects of transparency and contrast, while the camellia is transformed into a geometric figure of seductive perfection. An allusion to the first jewelry collection created by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932, the comet was a natural addition to the galaxy of motifs chosen by Leguéreau. The fires of the diamond and yellow sapphire stars burn brightly against a nocturnal combination of black and blue. The flowing, multi-row necklace pairs to perfection with the series of cocktail rings with luscious volumes. For the sun, «I chose a stained-glass effect where the light shines through the stones», says the director of the Chanel creative studio. This technique was used for the necklace with pendulous rock-crystal tassels daintily hem- med with diamonds and a sun at its center that can be detached to adorn a ring shank, choker, or brooch.

Lastly, the centerpiece devoted to the lion, Coco Chanel’s star sign and the symbol of Venice, her favorite city, is also a necklace. An artful combination of white gold, yellow gold, diamonds and rubies, this majestic bib necklace is adorned with a stylized lion’s head and a pear-shaped diamond weighing more than 10 carats.

Last February, the Tweed Couture necklace, launched in 2020 with the first tweed collection, became part of the Chanel legacy. Made f rom rose gold, platinum, pink sapphires, spinels, cultured pearls, and diamonds, it has 980 joints for optimum flexibility. This ambitious technical challenge has been expertly met by the jewelers, who have once again demonstrated their talents, continuing the dialogue between haute couture and high jewelry that began – with the exception of the 1932 Bijoux de diamants – exactly 30 years ago.

Tweed Astral ring in yellow gold and white gold, set with diamonds, yellow diamonds, sapphires and onyx.

Tweed Poudré brooch in rose gold, diamonds, and pink sapphires.

Tweed Cambon earrings in yellow and white gold, diamonds, yellow diamonds, and rock crystal.

By Louise Prothery - Published the

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