La Condesa, Indra Carillo's dream come true

Indra Carillo’s childhood dream was to open a restaurant in her home neighborhood of La Condesa in Mexico. But the years went by and her culinary experience in such fine establishments as Paul Bocuse, Michel Rostang, Le Meurice, Le Bristol and L’Astrance led her to fulfill her dream in SoPi (South Pigalle), in the former location of L’Atelier Rodier, just opposite the Orties restaurant.

Decorated by Camille Flammarion, the small dining room that seats a mere 24 guests boasts an elegant, intimate and harmonious setting with its wall mirrors, open kitchen, painted wood walls, bottle green bench seats and comfortable velvet chairs by Danish designer Verner Panton. The casual and especially contemporary atmosphere is a reflection of the delicious food featured on the Carte Blanche menus.

We loved the cuisine full of character and blended flavors, illustrated by remarkable agnolotti, roasted squash bouillon, hot pepper oil, ground sage and colonnata lard, an exquisite Mayan-style marinated pollock, roasted pineapple, avocado and aromatic salad, a superb veal in a Kombu marinade, pickleweed, mushroom emulsion and meat jus, or a refreshing watermelon jelly with tomato, pomegranate and smoked hibiscus sorbet. The dining room is run like a fine-oiled machine by Olivier Marchand, who once presided over Astrance, Taillevent and Saturne.

Prix-fixe lunch menu at €30. Carte Blanche menus in 4 courses at €48 and 6 courses at €68. Food and wine pairing (mainly organic, biodynamic, natural and sustainably grown wines) for a €25 or €35 supplement.