Jewelry

Jewelry Paris, the parade of wonders

04 May 2023

THE TASTE OF TRAVEL

A newcomer to the Cartier bestiary, the fighting fish has inspired this necklace which, in a deliberately abstract interpretation, repeats the ripples of their large, flexible fins. This plastron model is animated by a cascade of spinel balls selected for their harmony of colors and chosen by growing calibres. Each of them is placed in a kind of invisible cup and held by a tiny nail whose surface plays with light like water on the scales of a fish. An aesthetic and technical marvel, just like this third chapter of the Beauties of the World collection. True to the tradition of the Cartier brothers who roamed the planet, the latter endeavors to evoke its natural and cultural splendours such as the feathers of a peacock or the delicacy of the motif of a Japanese fabric.

13, rue de la Paix, 2e. www.cartier.com

PRECIOUS ODYSSEY

Soft as a garment, the Destiny cuff, combined with the ring, is an ode to ruby whose flamboyance echoes the avant-garde power of Louis Vuitton. For the necklace that completes the adornment, three years of research were needed to gather the 34 rubies whose intensity of color reaches its peak in the specimen pigeon blood that shines in the center, mounted by a diamond LV Monogram cut, the exclusive size of the house. The set is part of the new chapter of the Spirit collection, launched last summer, which tells in four universes, Destiny, Liberty, Fantasy and Radiance, the odyssey of Louis Vuitton, entrepreneur of genius who left his family at 15 to succeed in Paris.

2 Place Vendôme, 1st https://fr.louisvuitton.com

DANCE OF LIGHT

Pear, marquise, baguette and brilliant, the earrings of the third and last chapter of Piaget’s Solstice collection play on the different diamond sizes to choreograph a dance of light animated by the mobility of these earrings. An energy in line with the festive inspiration of the summer solstice, the longest night of the year, and a flexibility achieved thanks to a special mechanism developed by the jewellery workshops.

16 Place Vendôme, 1st www.piaget.com

BIRTHDAY NECKLACE

As Serpenti prepares to celebrate her 75th birthday, Bvlgari pays tribute once again to the reptile that brings her luck with this new necklace, also a masterpiece of know-how that required the artisans more than 20,000 hours of work. «The whole complexity was to make the piece mobile in order to give the impression of a living snake wrapping around the neck», explains the Italian jeweller. The design is signed by Lucia Silvestri, the artistic director, in association with a young Russian designer who collaborates for the first time with the house. Presented in preview in January, the necklace will be at the heart of the high jewellery collection launched in May.

23-25 Place Vendôme, 1st. www.bulgari.com/en/haute-joaillerie

FUTURE STONES

While the 6225 carat Insofu emerald is in the expert hands of the craftsmen for a future collection, Chopard has presented a series of exceptional cut stones waiting to be set. A few pieces fresh from her workshops also adorned the windows, such as this sculpted pink gold necklace, inspired by the lace ruffles of 17th-century court costumes, a nod from jewellery to the couture crafts she is so close to.

1 Place Vendôme, 1st. www.chopard.com

GOLDEN SILK

Unveiled in New York in November by Buccellati, the Macri Color collection welcomes twelve new pieces including this pagoda-shaped cocktail ring lit with a 6.63 carat blue zircon. What do they have in common? Hand-engraved gold that plays with light to attract the eye. On the white gold ruff edged with yellow gold and stitched with yellow diamonds, the craftsmen’s virtuoso work aims to reproduce the relief of silk, a specialty of the Italian house called “rigato”.

239 rue Saint-Honoré, 1er. wwww.buccellati.com

SKIN LACES

Victoire de Castellane, artistic director of Dior jewelry, continues to explore the world of couture with the new Dearest Dior collection dedicated to one of its finest skills: lace. Each of the 76 creations calls on the talent of artisans to evoke lightness and transparency, as on this bracelet animated by a central pattern openwork, in the centre of which shines a diamond of more than 3 carats pink cut, an ancient technique that gives it a subtle sparkle. The circumference of the wrist is composed of a river of diamonds. Diamonds stitched in the fishnet, plays of brilliance, interlacing flowers and arabesques, the virtuoso hands gave birth to pieces that pose on the skin like tattoos.

8, placeVendôme, 1. www.dior.com

OUTBURSTS

The necklace decorated with a 50-carat diamond from Lesotho of exceptional purity presented exclusively in Paris by the jeweller Graff, attracted particular attention. Designed in the continuity of the Tribal collection launched in 2021, it vibrates to the rhythm of 100 carats of diamonds of different sizes, pear, emerald, oval, baguette and brilliant, which highlight the central gem. Twenty other pieces have caused a sensation including several set with Fancy Yellow diamonds, a bright yellow that brings its radiance and joyful. A 30.73 carat emerald cut Sri Lankan sapphire and a 10.11 carat D Flawless diamond have also been mounted on rings, the quintessence of the Graff style.

17 Place Vendôme, 1st. www.graff.com

SEAM DIAL

In her workshop on Rue Cambon, Mademoiselle Chanel always wore a needle-pick on her wrist. I am fascinated by the drawing of objects whose architecture was born of a practical need, says Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel watchmaking creation studio. I adopted the spirit of this tool to create a watch.” The result is an oversized dial with curved glass containing all the virtuosity of the art professions: tweed-effect copper plates, necklaces, braided chains and miniature Byzantine brooches, great fire enamel… Attention, limited edition!

18 Place Vendôme, 1st www.chanel.com

ROYAL INSPIRATION

For this new Style Story dubbed Like a Queen, Claire Choisne, Director of Creations Boucheron, is part of a double clip Art Deco brooch of the house, offered to Queen Elisabeth by her parents during her 18 years. Multiporté and colour have been at the heart of our work on this collection, explains Claire Choisne, so that the pieces can be worn by both men and women. On some pieces we have deconstructed the original geometry of the design, on the contrary, we have compacted the Art Deco motif, elsewhere we have given it another dimension by playing on the colours of the stones.” Cherry ruby necklace, pink tourmaline brooch, azure aquamarine cuff, foam emerald earrings, no doubt that the eighteen pieces born of this style exercise would have been worn to perfection by the vanished sovereign.

26 Place Vendôme, 1st. www.boucheron.com