Those familiar with the old Tong Yen no longer found the warm setting, flavors and even less the atmosphere in the new version of the restaurant that had its heyday in the 1980s. Romain Costa, head of the Groupe Black Code, known for Orient Extrême, Yoko and Kinugawa on rue du Mont Thabor, thus decided it was time to say good-bye to the institution. The premises were once again renovated by the Gilles & Boissier team to rectify a few design flaws, in keeping with the style of Kinugawa Vendôme with Japanese print artwork, an open-concept sushi counter and a vast dining room that is brighter and more pleasant than before. Chef of the Groupe Black Code, Toyofumi Ozuru has concocted a creative and convincing menu full of delightful choices like a crunchy galette with slivers of tuna, subtly seasoned with white truffle, or a sea bass tiradito with citrus and yellow chili pepper. As you will have understood, the focus here is clearly fusion, as evinced by the Kyoto-Brest dessert created by the Pâtisserie des Rêves. While there may be some nostalgia for the Tong Yen of yore, this new Kinugawa is sure to become an institution in the Matignon district.
From noon to 2.30pm and 7.30pm to 11pm
Open daily • Valet parking
Average price: €75