Jewelry

Material World

Bvlgari revisits one of the boldest chapters in its design history, bringing together precious gold and industrial steel in a collection that feels as modern today as it did half a century ago.

In luxury, convention is often mistaken for permanence. Gold belongs in jewelry; steel belongs in engineering. Yet few maisons have challenged that assumption with as much conviction as Bvlgari.

This season, the Roman jeweler returns to one of the most distinctive signatures in its creative vocabulary: the dialogue between gold and steel. First explored by the house in the 1970s, the unexpected pairing reappears in a new collection spanning jewelry, high jewelry and watchmaking, reaffirming Bvlgari’s longstanding fascination with material experimentation.

 

Bvlgari

23-25 Place Vendôme, Paris, France www.bulgari.com/fr-fr/
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Bvlgari reminds us that true innovation often lies in contrast. Steel, prized for its strength and durability yet notoriously difficult to work in fine jewelry, brings an architectural rigor that sharpens the warmth and sensuality of yellow gold.

Leading the launch are two new additions to the B.zero1 family, offered in two-band and four-band versions. Framed in yellow gold and crafted in steel, the rings revisit the collection’s signature spiral motif, itself inspired by the grandeur of ancient Rome. Sleeker and lighter than previous iterations, they are designed for everyday wear while retaining the sculptural presence that has made B.zero1 one of Bvlgari’s most recognizable creations since its debut in 1999.

The exploration continues with new Bvlgari Tubogas pieces, including a necklace and bracelet that showcase the house’s mastery of movement and form. Inspired by the seamless industrial tubes that gave the collection its name, Tubogas remains one of the most technically impressive signatures in contemporary jewelry. Here, steel coils are punctuated with yellow-gold studs, creating a rhythmic interplay of texture, light and volume that feels both futuristic and timeless.

For collectors, Bvlgari also unveils a trio of extraordinary High Jewelry necklaces celebrating the Gold & Steel legacy. Produced as expressions of the maison’s pioneering spirit rather than commercial exercises, the pieces elevate the material dialogue to a rarefied level.

 

Serpenti Tubogas Studs Gold and Steel watch.

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The theme extends into watchmaking through the Serpenti Tubogas Studs capsule collection. Limited to just four pieces, the sculptural timepieces combine flexible Tubogas bracelets with gold accents, diamonds, colored stone dials and mother-of-pearl. The result is a striking reinterpretation of one of Bvlgari’s most iconic silhouettes, where jewelry and horology merge in a single gesture.

More than a simple material combination, Gold & Steel reflects a philosophy that has defined Bvlgari for decades: the willingness to challenge expectations, embrace contradiction and find beauty where others see opposites. .

One of the three High Jewelry necklaces from the Gold and Steel collection.

Par David Slama - Publié le

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