Marcin Król Fire as a Language
After working in all these restaurants around the world, why Paris?
Paris is the place where I have stayed the longest. It happened very naturally. It was not a city where I had planned to settle, but every time I left, I came back. So I eventually accepted that it was home. Cooking in this city is an absolute pleasure, between the quality of the products, the wine and the culture of the table.
What did Noma teach you?
Working in a place like Noma in Denmark at just 18 inevitably leaves a huge mark. What I learned there most of all was discipline and speed of execution. It is an extremely intense environment, where you have no choice but to learn quickly.
Why cook with wood fire today, when it feels almost out of step with the times?
We cook the way we like to eat. I have never been a great fan of sous-vide cooking. I like the spontaneity of cooking over fire. And part of our mission is also to train very good chefs, so it is essential that they learn to cook with instinct and intuition.
How do you handle the uncertainty of a menu that changes with every service?
Personally, cooking this way is simpler. When you receive products of exceptional quality every day, the menus almost write themselves. It seems much more logical to me to cook from the ingredients available.
Your cuisine looks simple. Yet it is highly technical. How do you find the balance?
That balance is essential. Each plate has to be able to exist on its own, without needing complex explanations. The absence of effects also comes from the way I eat: I like cuisine that is clean, simple and direct.
What does success look like for you today?
For me, success means being full all the time, having the freedom to do what we want, and of course making sure the guests enjoy themselves. Distinctions come and go. It is always pleasant to be recognized, but it is not an end in itself. The most important thing is to have happy guests and a happy team — the rest will follow.
